You may recall a good while back, our architect friend Dave came by with his daughter Addie. We took them upstairs to check out our progress--at that point we'd just finished tearing the walls down to the studs.
Observing that our second floor hallway (the photo above) was a bit bland and isolated, Dave came up with a fantastic suggestion: open up the hallway with interior windows!
Installed high to the ceiling on both sides, they could provide natural light, create a more open feel, and tie together the whole second floor. It was just the type of design idea we love--a bit of the unexpected when you reach the top of the stairs that can make that space feel special.
I had no idea then just how much work that simple idea would require...
But before that, a bit about the design itself--where exactly would these windows be? Well, Jeannie came up with the best location that would create a sense of symmetry in the hallway but also feel right in each of the adjoining rooms (a second bedroom and the master bath). The window locations J chose are perfectly aligned on both sides of the hall as well as with the exterior windows in each of the adjoining rooms, and just high enough to let in light without compromising privacy when someone walks down the hallway.
Jeannie taped off the space so that we wouldn't accidentally cross the space with a stray run of Cat-5 or conduit.
So the other day I finally got to work roughing-in the windows where Jeannie had marked them. All started well--I took a few measurements and then marked off the rough opening using a level. It was only after my first few cuts that I realized my problem: one of these two walls was the infamous "sistered wall". On that wall, the original studs were installed 90-degrees off (the boards were turned to the side). They were still installed 16-on-center, but the resulting wall was 2 inches deep instead of the typical 4 inches.
As a remedy, I'd "sistered" the entire wall with additional 2x4s to build it up to a normal depth. I thought this would be helpful because the interior windows would be the same depth. Now the problem was that every measurement on one wall was 2" different than the other wall! To make the two windows align I'd have to shim everything. My head almost exploded.
To make a long story a bit shorter, I did eventually figure it out. It actually wasn't that tough conceptually, but getting all the various measurements and cuts right involved more than a few errors along the way. I'm pretty convinced it would have been less work if I had just re-built the "sistered" wall in the first place. It would have been cleaner construction, too.
Anyway, here's the finished product, all framed out and ready for drywall, glass and window casings...
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Comments
Just wondering if the windows were going to open like the old Transom windows for natural circulation.
Posted by: Tom | September 27, 2004 7:33 AM
Looking at that pic, it occured to me that it might also be nice to terminate the hall with a transom over the door to the MBR. 3 is a nice balanced number always useful in design, and it would carry that element through to the end of the hallway. It's especially good to draw someone down a hall (even a short one) with light, rather than a dark dead end. I don't know the solar orientation of your house, but since that BR has the frontage and you're pretty tight on the sides, it might also let in more light (and through more of the day).
It doesn't look hard to install either, just knock out the jackstuds above the door and beef up the kingstuds around it... of course the whole story is about that folly! Have you thought about how you'll trim them out on the finished walls? Will they be visually tied into the doorframes or will there be wainscotting or what? Just my thoughts~ it's really coming together and looking great!
Posted by: Nathan | September 27, 2004 8:42 AM
Nathan--
You will be especially pleased that we considered a transom up there. It is a funky place, where the two rooflines meet in a dip. So there is a structural support issue there that we don't want to mess with. If we did "go for it", the height of the door to the ceiling to that point doesn't leave much room for a transom. It is different than all of the other hallway doors. Our transom there might be 3-5 inches high (at best!) and would be much thinner than the parallel transoms in the hallway. I love the sentiment, though. That is why we are reversing the swing of the door on the end and flanking it with soft mica sconces. (I hope to try to make these but we'll see. In the A&C tradition I SHOULD make them. But they are difficult.) The sconces will be the same ones that flank the sides of the bedroom beyond and, through the door, you will see the 3 prairie windows. Which draw people to that end already and we don't even have proper walls yet!
Tom--To answer your question, we would love the transoms to open (I am very supportive of circulation), but our budget is tight at this point. So we will be relying on a pal to help us frame some glass to set in the openings. I'd like the walls to be smooth (textured walls would make the space more narrow) and to trim out the transoms simply, like the windows, with a butt joint for bottom and sides and just a simple trim on top to match the other windows and the doors in the hallway. Someday we can replace them with transoms that open. Though I would have to consider the effect that would have on the bathroom space in terms of privacy, sound and releasing condensation out of reach of the bathroom fan. It's a process. Dave was so creative to come up with the idea, because the hallway was very dark and narrow before. Aaron knocked himself out getting them perfectly lined up even when the existing studs were NOT lined up. That was a truly amazing feat.
Take care--
jm
Posted by: jm | September 27, 2004 9:41 AM
Aha, I see!
Yeah, it seems that you guys understand very well that to do something in a forced manner is worse than just leaving be. Good call on the smooth walls, too. Another question on the transoms you are going ahead with, though~ will you use clear or textured glass? I'm a big proponent of frosted in such applications, myself. Also~ check local fire codes about operable transoms. Most places no longer allow them in new construction because they make it easier for fire to jump from one room to another and potentially allow what would otherwise be an isolated fire more of the air it needs to spread. Technically, you may even be SUPPOSED to use rated glass in the innoperable transoms you're installing.
I LOVE that you're going to attempt the lights yourself! Ive made several of these kinds of things and it's surprisingly easy to make something really elegant as long as you keep it simple.
Posted by: Nathan | September 27, 2004 10:48 AM
Not to be a design nitpicker, but wouldn't the windows have worked better if you had included Addie's horses?
Posted by: Gregg | September 27, 2004 10:52 AM
Nathan--Definitely frosted, safety glass and we'd like to get laminated glass (as a fire break). We were keen on recycling some of the glass left in the house, but it doesn't have these properties that you rightly point out are SO important. We will use the other half windows and such for decorative purposes on walls, etc. I've collected a few windows in my lifetime (including carefully carrying some home from China). Windows IN walls are supreme, windows ON walls or hanging by a sturdy chain to suggest a barrier without creating one are excellent too. Just hanging them on the walls showcases them as the works of art that they truly are.
Gregg--I would LOVE to use Addie's horses as decorative devices. I gave her a few from the house and I don't want to be an indian giver :) and ask for them back. However, there are two Dala horses we have which will enjoy a prominent place on the second floor somewhere in honor of Addie. They are popular symbols of Sweden (my husband's roots...there's a little bit of Norwegian in him as well. :)
Posted by: jm | September 27, 2004 11:41 AM
That's a fabulous feature - funny that it isn't used more, isn't it? Now I can't wait to see the finished hallway!
Posted by: LisaB | September 27, 2004 12:48 PM
What about using a seeded or wavy glass instead of frosted? Would maintain privacy and obscure views of any, say, 6-foot-7 passersby :) but let in more of that natural light you crave. Just a thought.
Posted by: Anonymous | September 27, 2004 8:48 PM
Oh yeah, we are DEFINITELY going with frosted glass. Very very frosted.
Posted by: jm | September 27, 2004 10:39 PM
You should consider "Glue Glass". It is a traditional textured and frosted finish that was used in old houses. Before you go to a window and glass shop, go to a stained glass window supplier or hobby shop that has a supply of stained glass. You will certainly find something there!
Posted by: Gary Leitzell | September 28, 2004 7:49 AM
Ooh, I second Gary's idea about (we call it here) glue chip. It looks kind of like a frosty winter window. My friends used frosted glass in a first-floor bathroom and dressing room - very necessary because that side of the house is right next to the neighbor's driveway - but the light penetration is next to nil except under very direct sunlight. I'd hate to think you've gone through all that trouble to add light to your hallway and not get the results you're hoping for. In any case your great hallway window idea reminds me of something you'd see in a not-so-big house, of which I know you're a fan!
Posted by: Anonymous | September 28, 2004 8:35 PM
I've never heard of "Glue Glass". Is it like Milk glass? Anybody got a link to a source?
Posted by: Nathan | September 30, 2004 9:38 AM
I found examples of different kinds of glass at this site. They show a great example of glue chip and how it looks different than other types of glass.
Posted by: jm | September 30, 2004 1:31 PM